01Start with bowl size, then check the liquid line
America's Test Kitchen's advice is that most home cooks should buy at least 11 cups, and the reasoning holds up: a 7- or 9-cup bowl fills fast with a head of cabbage or a double batch of pie dough, while a larger bowl costs little in counter space if the machine is compact. Three of our four picks meet that bar, and the fourth, the Hamilton Beach 70733, misses it by one cup.
The number on the box is dry capacity. For soups, sauces and batters, the liquid maximum matters more, and it is much lower. ATK lists 3 cups for the Cuisinart Custom 14, 2.25 cups for the Cuisinart Pro Custom 11 and 5 cups for the Breville Sous Chef 16. Hamilton Beach does not publish one, and its bowl leaked in TechGearLab's containment test. If you want to puree soup in quantity, a blender is the better tool; see our best blenders list.
As a rule of thumb, cook for one to three and the 11-cup Pro Custom 11 covers almost everything. Cook for a family, or prep a week of vegetables on Sunday, and the 14- or 16-cup machines save rounds.
02The blade matters more than the watts
Motor ratings range from 450 W on the Hamilton Beach to 1,450 W on the Breville, and they say less than you would think. The Custom 14's 720 W motor mixed pizza dough faster than any rival in TechGearLab's group, and ATK's double batch of heavy dough went through without strain. What watts do not tell you is how close the S-blade sits to the floor and walls of the bowl.
That gap decides whether small amounts get processed or just ride around. ATK found that the current Custom 14 blade sits slightly higher than the version it tested before, and a single batch of mayonnaise would not emulsify; a double batch did. The Pro Custom 11's blade sits lower and handled the single batch. ATK also saw Ninja's 12-cup Professional XL fail the same test because its blades sit too high. If you make small sauces, dressings or baby food, look for reports on small-batch performance, not wattage.
Dough is the other place people over-buy. ATK's view is that a good S-blade does the job and a separate dough blade is unnecessary, and its results for the Custom 14 back that up. Only the Breville includes a dough blade, and its manual caps dough at 2 pounds of flour per batch. For bread every week, a stand mixer may suit you better; see our best stand mixers.
03Fixed discs or an adjustable slicer
Slicing and shredding are where the machines differ most. The Custom 14 comes with one 4 mm slicing disc and one medium shredder, and other sizes are sold separately. The Pro Custom 11 adds a 2 mm thin slicer, which is the one you want for potato gratin and cucumber salad. The Hamilton Beach has a single reversible disc that slices on one side and shreds on the other, and TechGearLab found that it mangled tomatoes.
The Breville replaces the stack of discs with one adjustable slicer that has 24 settings from 0.3 to 8.0 mm, plus a reversible fine and coarse shredder and a French fry disc. If you slice every week and care about thickness, this is the feature worth paying for. If you slice a few times a month, two fixed discs are enough.
04Feed tube and lid
A wide feed tube saves pre-cutting. TechGearLab found the Custom 14's tube the largest in its test group, big enough for its whole test tomatoes. The Breville's chute nests three pushers, giving openings from 1.7 to 5.5 inches, and its manual recommends the narrow chutes for carrots and cucumbers so they stand upright and slice evenly. The Pro Custom 11 adds a flat cover with no feed tube, which ATK singled out as easy to clean, for jobs like pie dough or salsa where nothing goes in mid-run.
05Cleanup and storage
A processor you dread washing stays in the cupboard. The two Cuisinarts are the simplest: few parts and levers instead of buttons, and the Custom 14 stores all three of its blades and discs inside the bowl. ATK found the Breville's lid full of crevices and its blades multi-part, and Breville's manual recommends hand-washing the bowl and lid. The Hamilton Beach's scraper saves stops during use but adds parts in the lid to clean.
Check height before you buy. Consumer Reports puts the Custom 14 at about 15 inches, Hamilton Beach lists the 70733 at 15.47 inches, and Breville lists the Sous Chef 16 at 17.7 by 11.3 by 9.2 inches with a separate accessory box.
06Noise and warranty
TechGearLab measured 61.5 dB at 3 feet for the Custom 14 and 96 dB for the Hamilton Beach, a difference you will hear across the house. Warranty follows the same pattern: 5 years on the motor for both Cuisinarts and 30 years for the Breville's, against 1 year for the Hamilton Beach.